Ohrid by night

From Sofia we head to Skopje, Macedonia, but we're already tired of the capital beat, so we stick around the Skopje bus station and wait for the next bus out to Ohrid instead. Ohrid is a lakeside resort town, a weekend escape place for locals. When we arrive, our big backpacks and other telltale signs reveal our traveler status, and the ladies offering rooms to stay and men offering taxi rides tug and prod at us relentlessly. Mind, we had planned to find a room with somebody selling space in their home. A cheap place to stay in a small town, so nothing could be too far away from the action. But they were so aggressive, all I wanted to do was hightail it away from them. We grabbed a taxi to the center and just found something from there.

Since it was Friday, Ohrid turned out to be a pretty hoppin' little town, where we danced in Aquarius. (Hemingway and Aquarius top the list of bar names in eastern Euorpe.) When the sardine pack of people started to get a little too snug, we wiggled our way to the back of the cafe nightclub. A patio dock stilted above the water with cushy sofas and low tables for chillin'. The full moon shone black glitter onto the lake, and underwater spotlights like moons brightened the schools of fish swimming in the teal below. This may very well be the coolest spot in Ohrid, but you have to be there at night.

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