There go the glaciers

We've been having amazing weather for more than a week. I mean it's hot and there's hardly any wind. Locals who might be in short sleeves in 45-degree F weather are in pain. I'm loving it. The other day I heard it was up to 25 degrees C, that's in the high 70s. And that never ever happens. We're talking blue skies and sunshine. It's just so lovely and so clear, you can see mountain ranges across the fjord that you can hardly ever see. I don't know the names of them, because it's never clear enough to see them or try to identify them. Though, this morning I woke up with the music of my dream still in my head (calentimiento global). Other than the fact that I'm definitely dreaming in Spanish, I'm not sure what it means that I'm dreaming so fervently about global warming conversations. Anyway, the warm weather and completely breathtaking, mindblowing views make me happy. And they're kind of a tease, making me think, Oh, I could live here. It's so beautiful. But I was really missing the sunshine before this "heat wave," so that's why it's a tease.

Thing is, I really do like Natales. It's a cute town on the Pacific, on Seno Ultima Esperanza (Last Hope Sound) sheltered by fjords and with mountains jutting straight up out of the water. If you just take a look at the people walking around town, they all walk so slow. Nobody's in a hurry, people stop and say hi everywhere. And if you're not in a conversation with someone who actually lives here (it's really a tourist town), you're talking to a traveler. These conversations are usually lovely and refreshing. People come here to go to Torres del Paine, and as is the case with most travelers, they're looking for something. Beauty. A step back. To gain perspective. Even when it's raining. So, yeah, I like it here. Forever? No. For how long? I still don't know.

When I first got here I stayed with lovely Marijke and Sergio for about five days. Marijke, who was doing the cycling trip from Ushuaia to Alaska, got sidetracked and is no planning to go cycle in India and Southeast Asia for six months with Sergio. On the 19th, they swam across the fjord in freezing water, this was the first time crossing, and they did it quick. They really are amazing, and I was so happy I could be there to give them towels. What a production it was and what a day! This was also the first day of our lovely weather, lucky as they are, and they has sunny blue skies and calm, sin viento, water.

Then my dear Chilean friends Ivian and Pedro invited me stay with them for a while. It's a bigger place, though I do miss Sergio's real coffee in the morning. I really adore Ivian and Pedro, we have a blast together, laughing a ton. Now they're gone for three weeks on vacation, so I'm watching their dogs. It kind of worked out perfect. Ivian even helped me get my stuff out of the other house. When I first got back here, I was super nervous about how people were going to be and all the things I had to do. But now that I have a place for a while (and can look for another place without being in a big hurry) and have my stuff out of the other house, and have talked to Roberto a bit, I feel a lot less anxious. Plus it's been so nice just staying with people and being with friends all the time. It's the unknown and anticipation that cause so much stress.

And really, upon getting here, I had the same feeling I had when I arrived to the States: just that I'm so lucky. So lucky in the States to have family and friends who love me and who I love, that I feel healthy, and that I have options. Here I feel the same, lucky to have friends that I love and who love me. And even luckier to still have all my family and friends in the States. Maybe that's an obvious. But this whole thing would be a lot more difficult without the support of mi gente. I mean, if I fail miserably, I know that someone will take me in and still love me afterward, and I didn't always know that. It took me a while to know, and it feels so good, not only to know it ,but also to see myself finally be able to. And So, thank you.

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