I'm in La Paz at a little pub with free wifi... Can you believe it? I can't. It's solyluna-lapaz.com -- somebody make sure this bad boy is in the Directory! Here's the skinny version of what I've been up to, trekking and relaxing more or less. Spent about a week in Sorata, a beautiful valley town, super tranquilo, but there was a bit of a bread controversy. "No hay pan, no hay pan." The first day I arrived, everything was closed on account of protests. Folks protesting the cost of flour to make bread, evidently. And for this reason, all three hornos (ovens) were closed and not making pan. From Sorata I hiked up to Laguna Chillata (4200 meters) and Laguna Glaciar (5038 meters) in the Cordillera Real -- without bread for sandwiches, mind. Even with acclimatizing in La Paz (orgullosamente 3600 meters), reaching Laguna Glaciar was hard! I met an Indian girl from Kenya who was also looking to do some trekking and ended up hiring a guide and mules, which costed us about 50 bolivianos each per day, including food -- about 6 bucks.
Tomorrow I'm going to take a micro (tiny bus) about 12 hours to a small town called Pelechuco to trek the Cordillera Apolobamba. It's supposed to be one of the most beautiful treks in all of Bolivia and off the beaten path a bit, I think because of the lack of decent transportation to reach it. Most of the hiking will be above 4000 meters with 5 higher passes. The hike is about 4 or 5 nights and 5 or 6 days.