Who decides what's interesting or not?

Writing in the mornings. Preparing cardamom spiced espressos in the Italian percolator. Cereal breakfasts before making the rounds in town. Sheltering a black kitten from certain death then sweating awake from nightmares where she’s speaking to you because you suddenly you discover she has some skin diseases and it's not a good idea to touch her.

An occasional morning movie with Serkan. Reading too late into the night yet not enough to make a dent in the list. Retaking to Turkish studies in the midafternoon shine when the kitchen is lightest. When nobody’s around to listen to the noise. Often drown out by the neighbor who washes, manhandles and vrooms his red 1980s hotrod...every day. Back and forth, back and forth, vroom vroom in his driveway as reggaeton booms from his dinky subwoofer, rattling the doors of his baby and--on Saturdays--shaking the windows here.

Hunting for land with friends and coming home with a kilo of the sweetest strawberries this side of the equator and one more blondie kitten. Stumbling upon a woodworker’s dream. A house found lost in Puerto Natales where every single log has been worked, carved, glossed, each stair, floorboard, piece of furniture, shelf, counter a piece of art. A sauna and two hot tub mini-houses, landscaping even and planted trees. Houses like this don’t exist here. But there is one, which you can buy from the lonesome woodcraftsman wolf whose family left him or is waiting for him (oh who knows for sure it’s a long story) up north.

In other real news my dear friend Tim is coming to visit us in mid-February. And I just made my first jam ever! Red currant with strawberry. We’ll see how it firms up and cools tomorrow. Tim can let everyone know if it was any good or not on the other side. The kittens, by the way, are named Jules and Rome.

Arbitrarily speaking

The truth is so many interesting things are happening every moment. Right now: The wind whipping loose cables against the house, pushing the clouds at such speed. Within one minute sun turns to shadow; it rains; returns sun. The windows shutter. A cieling board leading up to an uncrawlable crawlspace lifts up and lands back askew on the rafters. The swinging door in the kitchen sways and creaks. Gusts lash through the tin chimenys; the stoves inside vibrate a little.

Unfortunate plastic bags tatter through the streets, sticking to trees and fenceposts. A red bug, tinier than a pinpoint, hurries down the white wall, tracing loose esses. These must be the types of bugs--in large quantities--they used to dye wool, anciently. Someone writes all this down, abritrarily.

Elsewhere a couple commences their first kiss. Someone is on fire or dreaming of flying salmon. Looks up phoenix in the dictionary. Cries for loneliness or a wedding. Hides under the bed. Gives birth. Is born. Dies. Looks in the mirror and sees a stranger. Starts their first day of work. Avoids an accident on the road. Saves a life on the river. Writes a difficult letter to a friend. Stares out the window instead of the hard monitor. An orange striped cat stares back--halted. Takes a few steps, looks back, locks eyes. Continues this along an entire fenceline, so that one cannot even leave her future gaze.

Visit us while the skies are blue

...and while we are still here! This is a small photo post, because I finally have an internet connection fast enough to post pics! My photo-taking skills are sorely lacking, but it's on my list of things to learn, as is Turkish, Photoshop and knitting.

A few clear-day photos from Torres del Paine, doing the usual W trek...

Typical Patagonian skies, on a clear day.


Base of the Towers on a crazy calm windless day.


Los Cuernos at night with a bit of moon.


And a couple more photos from our land. Yes, it's true. Just like real adults, we have bought a slice of the Patagonian pie. It's half a hectare just outside of Puerto Natales in a sector referred to as Los Huertos. Beautiful views of several mountain ranges and of the fjord (if you build two stories). We don't have any plans to do anything with it. We're just hoping to have an asado fiesta there (or my other idea is some sort of sunworshipping rave, but that looks doubtful). For now it's a great place to play frisbee, especially when you get the wind on your team.

Land view toward fiordo Ăšltima Esperanza.


Land view Cerro Dorotea side, with pro frisbee tosser.

Happy New Year!

It's the beginning of summer down here, the days are long and the weather rainy. Lambs, which were born a few months ago, eat people's lawns or get eaten by people. The lambs have already grown quite a bit, so they're on super sale. And what better time for an asado than NY's eve, right?

In the markets store clerks incessantly restocked booze and briquettes while dodging the hordes of people trying to complete their shop before everything closed down. By 5 p.m., the carnicerias had freshly skinned and butchered lambs dangling in the windows. Strings of blood still dripped from their toothy grins. And their eyes, just a spot poppier for having no skin.

As I was walking around town revving up for our New Year's eve events--which did not include any little lambs--I passed several men shouldering black plastic bags stuffed with a clumsy something. Then one man with a bounce in his step and a garbage bag on his shoulder walked by, his long-necked lamb's head bobbing behind him. that solved the puzzle of the what's in the bag.

We're still thinking about buying a lamb to chow down in our backyard jungle. But what to do with the cutiepie when he turns mutton age and we aren't in town anymore. I have a rule about not eating pets.

Summer Christmas wishes

Just a couple of days ago we received a wonderful piece of California by mail. From some good friends who love Disneyland and--apparently--also enjoy dressing up in Hawaiian print shirts for photo shoots with Mickey Mouse. This is the second time I'm receiving hilarious family picture cards in the mail all the way to Patagonia. The cards always a funny allusion to summertime. I love it so much that we've been thinking how sappy good it would be to send our family and friends something similar. Though we are way too late to do anything in time for Christmas and don't really have people's addresses to send real mail, something may be in the works. Stay tuned...

Summer has sprung, mostly. The mornings have been sunny and calm, with gusts picking up before noon, when the gray moves in and moves out fast as the wind sometimes with rain, sometimes without. Temperatures have been in the high 50s, sometimes low 60s, you know, T-shirt weather. As I write this the guy with the weed whacker is grinding down our forest of weeds with a tremendous buzz. (The organic grasscutter sheep deal fell through.) Lawnmowers aren't here yet, so if anybody is ready for a career change, I'm sure you could come down here with your John Deere and make a small fortune mowing weeds.

Serkan and I leave tomorrow to Torres del Paine where we'll be working together. We'll spend Christmas eve there, but hope to be back in time to make a some phone calls to the motherland on Christmas day. Happy holidays & love.

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